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Saturday, July 19, 2008

RECENT PRESS COVERAGE IN HERSAM NEWSPAPERS--RIDGEFIELD PRESS
Attorney's career goes to the dogs PDF Print E-mail
Written by Kathleen Flaherty   
Monday, July 14, 2008

Attorney-turned-home dog trainer Bruce Caplin has a whole new species of clients — dogs. But he still works with people — namely, their owners — to help preserve the behavior these dogs have learned during 10-minute training sessions.— Kathleen Flaherty photo


“I don’t love the law, and it’s a hard way to make a living,” said Bruce Caplin, a former attorney who now lays down the law with canines.

Last January he launched his own business — The 10 Minute Dog, LLC, — for which Mr. Caplin and his two associates-in-training travel to clients’ homes to offer free consultations and in-home training and behavior modification.

“Dogs don’t speak our language,” said Mr. Caplin, who is a licensed professional trainer and canine behaviorist. To that end, he teaches owners to read their dogs physically, in an effort to “help communicate to the dog the behaviors that we want and the behaviors that we don’t want.”

“Working with the family is crucial because the family is that dog’s pack, and they all they have to work to become pack leaders so the dog respects them,” said Mr. Caplin, who’s also the training director at Danbury Animal Welfare Society [DAWS] and an expert witness and consultant in dog bite cases. “Dogs are social pack animals, so humans have to be the pack leaders for this to work.”

Communication

Dogs communicate in four ways — through body language, vocal intonation and inflection, touch and scent. Mr. Caplin makes owners more sensitive to their dogs’ methods of communication, but also teaches them how to let their dog know who’s boss.

“I get a lot of dogs that are exhibiting aggression or other behaviors built out of fear, so I teach a lot of owners how to build confidence in their dogs” by teaching a dog basic obedience commands, he said. “When they finally get it, they’re more confident.” And positive reinforcement from the owner perpetuates that desired behavior.

“Dogs have an inherent quality to want to please the pack leader,” he said. “There’s no other animal that’s domesticated that works with us as a team ... there’s a reason why there aren’t any search-and-rescue cows or seeing-eye cats out there.” In fact, Mr. Caplin and his wife, Lynn, have three dogs of their own — two Labradors and one half-bassett, half-Lab rescue dog.

Nevertheless, one lesson isn’t going to do the trick — training sessions should take place daily, but each session should be limited to 10 minutes.

“After 10 minutes a dog’s attention span is usually gone,” he said, which accounts for his tendency to keep training sessions involving the dog “sweet and short.” Therefore, they’re no more than 15 minutes long.  

“Clients have to work with their dogs every day,” he reiterated. But the training is not, he reassured, an overwhelming commitment. “If you love your dog that much, you can afford 10 minutes a day.”

“All sessions end on a high note,” he added. “That way, the dog starts to love to learn and it’s no longer a chore.”

Maintaining behavior

“The time is right,” he said, “with large-scale layoffs and many people turning towards self employment and home-based businesses.”

In fact, he started the process of franchising his home-based business in January, including not only training techniques but his Web-based business model, too.

“You have to love dogs, but you really have to love people — I don’t teach dogs as much as I teach people,” said Mr. Caplin, who’s been training dogs for 18 years and regularly teaches seminars on understanding canine body language to both dog owners and local veterinarians.  

Jill Leo from Weston and her husband Joe have been working with Mr. Caplin for 10 months on a variety of levels — puppy training, behavior modification, and hunting retriever training — with their one-year-old black Labrador Molly.

“Whatever he teaches us, we teach our kids — the whole family is involved,” said Mrs. Leo, who works with Mr. Caplin and Molly at least twice a week. “They’re all using the right commands ... if the dog’s misbehaving, they tell their friends how to manage the dog in the correct way.” Molly is now one ribbon away from a junior hunting title.

“If the owners don’t know how to communicate, reinforce behavior or principles that we’re teaching ... if they don’t know how to maintain and know how to deal with problems or disobedience when it arises, then you’ll start seeing these behaviors fall apart,” said Mr. Caplin. Owners, when employing Mr. Caplin’s services, receive a complimentary guide that apart from discussing canine behavior, communication and psychology, outlines steps to instill basic desirable behaviors in their dogs. Since every dog is different, said Mr. Caplin, the guide lets the reader know what steps to take if the dog “doesn’t do what it’s supposed to do.”

To register for a seminar or to receive more information regarding 10 Minute Dog, call 470-8087 or visit www.10minutedog.com.

Mr. Caplin offers his services in Fairfield and surrounding counties — Litchfield, New Haven, and regions of Hartford, and in New York, Westchester, Putnam and Duchess counties.

8:59 pm

Friday, June 27, 2008

R. Michael DiLullo

Keeping Them Cool

by R. Michael DiLullo

Keeping your hunting dog cool and hydrated, especially during late summer training and the early portion of the hunting season, means recognizing the signs of heat-related illnesses, knowing how to prevent them and what to do if your dog succumbs.


Each September thousands of hunters and their dogs go afield and begin their hunting season. In many parts of the United States, particularly in the southeast, September is the opening month for mourning doves, teal and resident Canada geese. September also means shooting preserves across the country will be opening their doors to wing shooters looking to get an early start on the season. With temperatures in the nineties not uncommon, all hunting dog owners need to be familiar with the dangers a working dog can face in these conditions.

Most hunters and their four legged partners lead sedentary lifestyle during the off-season. The average gun dog owner doesn’t train or condition his dog as often as he should. In fact, most of us will wait until just prior to the season and work out a quick refresher course or just start out hunting, assuming our dogs will simply pick-up where we left off last season. Like any athlete, you and your hunting dog need to get into shape and acclimate to the environment long before opening day. With little conditioning or training for seven or more months, both you (the hunter) and his dog are at a very high risk of succumbing to a heat-related illness.

Most veterinarians and professional gun dog trainers place a high emphasis on working your dog throughout the year, especially during the spring and summer months. Because many bird dogs are also family and housedogs, during the heat of the summer they spend a lot of time in air-conditioned homes. You have to acclimatize your dog to spending time in the heat of the day, especially if he is going to perform high exertion activities, such as he does when hunting. Pre-conditioning is the best way to avoid heat-related problems in the field. Ideally, training and conditioning should be a year round activity, with workouts in the warmer months being completed before the heat of the day. Both younger and older dogs are usually the most susceptible to heat-related illnesses, while overweight and out-of-shape dogs are at an even higher risk of succumbing to heatstroke.

Many professional gun dog trainers recommend a warm weather training regiment of an hour in the morning and another in the evening. Run your dog and work on retrieving drills, building slowly as you go. Just as when you are starting a fitness program, workouts should start out slow and easy. Make the workouts fun and if needed take frequent rest breaks allowing the dog to have some water. As in any training process you want to increase the duration gradually as the dog increases his endurance and becomes accustomed to the heat. Also, just because your dog is acclimatized in one region of the country, don’t assume he will be okay running in another. A dog that lives in a cooler climate like Maine for example, will not perform as well in a warmer climate like Georgia, without time to adjust to the warmer weather.

The onset of heat related problems can be quite subtle, so it is important to keep a watchful eye on your dog while training or hunting in warm weather. The symptoms can also be very inconspicuous and difficult to detect, if you don’t know what to look for. The different types of common heat-related problems that may be encountered while training and hunting are: Heat stress, Heat exhaustion and Heat stroke.

During the early part of the hunting season, all gun dog owners need to be aware of the dangers a working dog can face in warm weather.
Photo by: Author
Heat stress is when, due to increased body temperature, your dog is not performing at his normal level. He may be slow in reacting to your commands, will usually be panting and may simply lay down and not want to get up. Get him out of the sun and into a shaded area, allow him to rest and give him water in small quantities frequently.

During heat exhaustion, which is also called heat prostration, the dog becomes physically exhausted due to the exposure to heat, and the resulting depletion of his body fluids. The dog will appear weak or tired with an anxious or listless expression; he may just stare into space and be unresponsive to your commands. Usually, the dog will be panting heavily, will have a rapid heart rate, and may vomit or salivate excessively. Also, he may be unsteady on his feet and stagger while attempting to walk, the dog may also collapse. Get him into a cool area, if there is a body of water nearby get him in it, you have to try and cool his core body temperature down. If your dog will drink “Gatorade” or ”Pedialyte” or one of the new specialized canine sports mixes, give him a small amount, this will help replace electrolytes. If not, give him water in small amounts and allow him to rest until his breathing and heart rate are normal.

8:17 am

Friday, May 23, 2008

 
From: Bruce Caplin, JD CPDT <10minutedog@comcast.net>
Subject: The Garden & Your Dog
Reply: 10minutedog@comcast.net
 
The Garden & Your Dog
The Dog Doesn't Have to be the Enemy!
Dear Friends:
It's that time of year when we can roll up our sleeves and get our hands dirty. If you're like me, you've been waiting for the weather to break so you can get out into the garden and start the fun work. If you're also like me, you dread the possibility that Fido is going to trash all your hard work. Whether it's Fido's constant digging, or eating those tasty annuals, or deciding that the best place to nap is right in the middle of your perrennial beds, here is some advice  to keep you sane. Remember, "Don't blame 'em. Train 'em."
Fence the Garden
This may seem obvious, but often the simplest pet managment tools are the most effective. Keep your recalcitrant pooch out of those flower beds with a small fence. I have found that even an 18" high wire, picket or willow fence will keep a dog out of a garden. This works for large and small dogs alike. Experiment with different heights and styles. A fence also offers a focal point to showcase the garden.
Know Your Plants
There are too many plants potentially toxic to dogs to list here. Here's a link to a great site that has a comprehensive list of every plant that could adversely affect your dog.

Toxic Plants


Add Prickly Barrier Plants
Dogs do not like to walk on surfaces that irritate their feet. Come to think of it, neither do we. Add border plants with thorns, stickers or rough, prickly foliage such as juniper, red barberry or a rose hedge.




Stop the Digging!
If your ungrateful cur is digging holes in the garden, or other areas, try this:
Excavate out a 2-3" deep depression. Cut a piece of chicken wire to fit the hole and back fill the area. Dogs do not like the feel of rubbing their pads on chicken wire and will stop digging in those areas.
   
 
7:51 am

Monday, December 3, 2007

The Odd Couple--Introducing the Cat & Dog
A new client recently emailed me to discuss introducing her sister's cat to her new puppy. There are several ways this can be done. Here's the method I found to be the most successful. That being said, it is sometimes incredibly difficult, if not impossible, to get an older cat with a negative history of dogs to live in peaceful coexistence with the new pup. Oftentimes, these cats do not want anything to do with the dog and remain low key and out of sight. We need to focus on the dog and his inherent desire to chase prey. Whether playing, such as a young pup, or intensely wanting to chase, catch and kill, we need to consistently and quickly redirect this behavior. I prefer to teach dogs that cats are off limits entirely and are not to be disturbed. Here's what we'll do: 

Using a helper, set up several short daily training sessions--no more than a couple of minutes at first. With your dog wearing a training collar and leash, put him on a sit/stay next to you. Have your helper hold the cat on the other side of the room. Remember to keep you energy level calm and quiet. At this stage your dog will mostly likely be very curious and possibly excited. Insist that he remain in the sit/stay. Praise him for doing so.

Once he is calmed down and sitting quietly, have the helper bring the cat a few steps closer. If your dog remains quiet at your side in a sit/stay--praise him!. If he tries to lunge at the cat, give him a stern and dominant sounding, "NO! LEAVE IT!" together with a quick snap on the leash and put him back into the sit/stay position.

Continue bringing the cat closer a few feet at a time, repeating the  corrections as needed and making sure to praise the dog when he sits quietly and ignores the cat. Remember, this exercise can take several days, depending on the intensity level of the dog. You may only be able to gain a few feet per session.

The second step occurs ONLY after your dog is able to sit calmly and quietly with the cat right next to him. When he can do this consistently, we're going to release the dog from the sit/stay, with the cat being held by your helper in the room. Let the dog roam around the room, with his lead on (so you can catch him quickly if needed). If your dog gives even a hint of wanting to chase the cat, grab the leash and give a quick correction like above. Timing is critical. If he is allowed to chase the cat, even once, he'll want to try it again......and again...........and again.

Once he's reached the level of no interest, you will try the second step with the cat on the floor in the same room. Remember to keep the leash on your dog at this critical introduction stage. Go slowly and confidently and shortly, you'll have a harmonious relationship.
9:56 am

Thursday, October 18, 2007

Dog Haikus--Some goofy stuff
Love my master; Thus I perfume myself with This long-rotten mouse. 
I lie belly-up In the sunshine, happier than You ever will be 
Today I sniffed Many dog behinds—I celebrate By kissing your face. 
I sound the alarm! Paper boy—come to kill us all— Look! Look! Look! Look! Look! 
I lift my leg and Whiz on each bush. Hello, Spot—Sniff this and weep 
How do I love thee? The ways are numberless as My hairs on the rug. 
My human is home! I am so ecstatic I have Made a puddle 
I Hate my choke chain— Look, world, they strangle me! Ack Ack Ack Ack Ack Ack! 
Sleeping here, my chin On your foot—no greater bliss—well, Maybe catching cats
                                    
Look in my eyes and Deny it. No human could Love you as much as
                                    I do 
The cat is not all Bad—she leaves Tootsie Rolls in the
                                    litter box 
I am your best friend, Now, always, and especially When
                                    you are eating. 
3:38 pm

2008.07.01 | 2008.06.01 | 2008.05.01 | 2007.12.01 | 2007.10.01

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ARTICLES

PUPPY & THE PACK

For thousands of years dogs have lived in social groups called packs and each pack member has his own position or rank in the pack. Once puppies are able to walk and interact, they try to determine their position in the litter. A puppy soon learns if he is submissive, the other puppies will push him away from the food. If he is larger and stronger than the other puppies he will most likely be the one doing the pushing. As puppies get older they will have to figure out their position in the pack.

After a puppy is adopted into his new human pack, he has to re-establish his position. If he was the bully of the litter, he may try to bully his new pack members. If he was submissive with his littermates, he will probably start out being submissive. As he grows older and larger he will try to determine where he fits into this new human pack. His ultimate rank will depend on how his human pack members respond to his actions in various situations.

When first introduced to his new family, a puppy will usually act somewhat submissive. When greeted, your new puppy may roll over on his back and urinate or he may squat and urinate. He is sending you a message in dog language which says, “don’t hurt me, I am not a threat to you.” If he submits in this manner, do not scold him or you will make the problem worse.

As a puppy grows older he will take his cues on how he should respond to his new owners by the way they react to his actions. For example, a puppy is chewing on his favorite chew toy or rawhide and a child approaches the puppy. The puppy uses the body language he learned from his littermates to warn the child not to come any closer. These warning signs may be a low, soft growl, a curled lip, raised hackles or a nip directed at the child. If the child heeds the warning and backs away, this puppy has just learned that a threatening growl is a good way to keep his prized possessions away from this particular child. The puppy also learns that his rank or position in his new family is higher than this child’s.

Sometimes children are not able to interpret a puppy’s body language and they do not back off when warned. After several such incidents, the puppy feels he has given enough prior warning and he bites the child. Other members of the family may not witness the earlier incidents when the puppy growled and did not bite the child. When the child finally gets bitten, the mom or dad will often say the puppy bit the child for no reason, with no previous warning and they may want to get rid of the puppy.

If a puppy gets away with threatening a child or younger member of the family, he will usually try the same thing when other family members come near one of his favorite possessions. If the family member gives the puppy a stern correction and lets him know he should never growl at humans, the puppy has just learned that his position in the new family is lower than the family member who corrected him but still higher than the child he threatened. Over time, similar incidents will likely occur with every member of his new human pack. The response of each family member to the puppy’s actions will help determine his ultimate ranking.


Social maturity

Once he determines his family ranking and he submits to higher-ranking family members, there may not be any more problems until he reaches his social maturity. The best way to describe social maturity is when the puppy becomes a teenager. Social maturity usually occurs between 12-36 months of age, with 18-24 months of age being the norm. He is now older, stronger, more confident and his attitude toward family members may change. This mild-mannered, young, adult dog may now begin to challenge higher-ranking members of his human pack that he had previously submitted to.

The best to way assure your puppy knows his proper position in his human pack is to begin making him earn everything he receives, as soon as he joins your family. Prior to receiving anything such as food, petting, or play, you must make him sit to earn these privileges or rewards. By making your puppy sit, you will teach him that he must submit to you before you will give him anything. Nothing in life is free. Everything must be earned.


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