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Blog & Articles
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Saturday, July 19, 2008
RECENT PRESS COVERAGE IN HERSAM NEWSPAPERS--RIDGEFIELD PRESS
| Written by Kathleen Flaherty | Monday,
July 14, 2008 Attorney-turned-home dog trainer
Bruce Caplin has a whole new species of clients — dogs. But he still works with people — namely, their owners
— to help preserve the behavior these dogs have learned during 10-minute training sessions.— Kathleen Flaherty
photo | “I don’t love the law, and
it’s a hard way to make a living,” said Bruce Caplin, a former attorney who now lays down the law with canines.
Last January he launched his own business — The 10 Minute Dog, LLC, — for which
Mr. Caplin and his two associates-in-training travel to clients’ homes to offer free consultations and in-home training
and behavior modification. “Dogs don’t speak our language,” said Mr. Caplin,
who is a licensed professional trainer and canine behaviorist. To that end, he teaches owners to read their dogs physically,
in an effort to “help communicate to the dog the behaviors that we want and the behaviors that we don’t want.” “Working with the family is crucial because the family is that dog’s pack, and they all they have to
work to become pack leaders so the dog respects them,” said Mr. Caplin, who’s also the training director at Danbury
Animal Welfare Society [DAWS] and an expert witness and consultant in dog bite cases. “Dogs are social pack animals,
so humans have to be the pack leaders for this to work.” Communication Dogs communicate in four ways — through body language, vocal intonation and inflection, touch and scent. Mr.
Caplin makes owners more sensitive to their dogs’ methods of communication, but also teaches them how to let their dog
know who’s boss. “I get a lot of dogs that are exhibiting aggression or other behaviors
built out of fear, so I teach a lot of owners how to build confidence in their dogs” by teaching a dog basic obedience
commands, he said. “When they finally get it, they’re more confident.” And positive reinforcement from the
owner perpetuates that desired behavior. “Dogs have an inherent quality to want to please
the pack leader,” he said. “There’s no other animal that’s domesticated that works with us as a team
... there’s a reason why there aren’t any search-and-rescue cows or seeing-eye cats out there.” In fact,
Mr. Caplin and his wife, Lynn, have three dogs of their own — two Labradors and one half-bassett, half-Lab rescue dog. Nevertheless, one lesson isn’t going to do the trick — training sessions should take place daily, but
each session should be limited to 10 minutes. “After 10 minutes a dog’s attention
span is usually gone,” he said, which accounts for his tendency to keep training sessions involving the dog “sweet
and short.” Therefore, they’re no more than 15 minutes long. “Clients
have to work with their dogs every day,” he reiterated. But the training is not, he reassured, an overwhelming commitment.
“If you love your dog that much, you can afford 10 minutes a day.” “All sessions
end on a high note,” he added. “That way, the dog starts to love to learn and it’s no longer a chore.”
Maintaining behavior “The time
is right,” he said, “with large-scale layoffs and many people turning towards self employment and home-based businesses.”
In fact, he started the process of franchising his home-based business in January, including
not only training techniques but his Web-based business model, too. “You have to love dogs,
but you really have to love people — I don’t teach dogs as much as I teach people,” said Mr. Caplin, who’s
been training dogs for 18 years and regularly teaches seminars on understanding canine body language to both dog owners and
local veterinarians. Jill Leo from Weston and her husband Joe have been working with Mr.
Caplin for 10 months on a variety of levels — puppy training, behavior modification, and hunting retriever training
— with their one-year-old black Labrador Molly. “Whatever he teaches us, we teach
our kids — the whole family is involved,” said Mrs. Leo, who works with Mr. Caplin and Molly at least twice a
week. “They’re all using the right commands ... if the dog’s misbehaving, they tell their friends how to
manage the dog in the correct way.” Molly is now one ribbon away from a junior hunting title. “If
the owners don’t know how to communicate, reinforce behavior or principles that we’re teaching ... if they don’t
know how to maintain and know how to deal with problems or disobedience when it arises, then you’ll start seeing these
behaviors fall apart,” said Mr. Caplin. Owners, when employing Mr. Caplin’s services, receive a complimentary
guide that apart from discussing canine behavior, communication and psychology, outlines steps to instill basic desirable
behaviors in their dogs. Since every dog is different, said Mr. Caplin, the guide lets the reader know what steps to take
if the dog “doesn’t do what it’s supposed to do.” To register for a seminar
or to receive more information regarding 10 Minute Dog, call 470-8087 or visit www.10minutedog.com. Mr.
Caplin offers his services in Fairfield and surrounding counties — Litchfield, New Haven, and regions of Hartford, and
in New York, Westchester, Putnam and Duchess counties. |
8:59 pm
Friday, June 27, 2008
 |  | | R. Michael DiLullo |
Keeping
Them Coolby R. Michael DiLulloKeeping your hunting
dog cool and hydrated, especially during late summer training and the early portion of the hunting season, means recognizing
the signs of heat-related illnesses, knowing how to prevent them and what to do if your dog succumbs.
Each
September thousands of hunters and their dogs go afield and begin their hunting season. In many parts of the United States,
particularly in the southeast, September is the opening month for mourning doves, teal and resident Canada geese. September
also means shooting preserves across the country will be opening their doors to wing shooters looking to get an early start
on the season. With temperatures in the nineties not uncommon, all hunting dog owners need to be familiar with the dangers
a working dog can face in these conditions.
Most hunters and their four legged partners lead sedentary lifestyle
during the off-season. The average gun dog owner doesn’t train or condition his dog as often as he should. In fact,
most of us will wait until just prior to the season and work out a quick refresher course or just start out hunting, assuming
our dogs will simply pick-up where we left off last season. Like any athlete, you and your hunting dog need to get into shape
and acclimate to the environment long before opening day. With little conditioning or training for seven or more months, both
you (the hunter) and his dog are at a very high risk of succumbing to a heat-related illness.
Most veterinarians
and professional gun dog trainers place a high emphasis on working your dog throughout the year, especially during the spring
and summer months. Because many bird dogs are also family and housedogs, during the heat of the summer they spend a lot of
time in air-conditioned homes. You have to acclimatize your dog to spending time in the heat of the day, especially if he
is going to perform high exertion activities, such as he does when hunting. Pre-conditioning is the best way to avoid heat-related
problems in the field. Ideally, training and conditioning should be a year round activity, with workouts in the warmer months
being completed before the heat of the day. Both younger and older dogs are usually the most susceptible to heat-related illnesses,
while overweight and out-of-shape dogs are at an even higher risk of succumbing to heatstroke.
Many professional
gun dog trainers recommend a warm weather training regiment of an hour in the morning and another in the evening. Run your
dog and work on retrieving drills, building slowly as you go. Just as when you are starting a fitness program, workouts should
start out slow and easy. Make the workouts fun and if needed take frequent rest breaks allowing the dog to have some water.
As in any training process you want to increase the duration gradually as the dog increases his endurance and becomes accustomed
to the heat. Also, just because your dog is acclimatized in one region of the country, don’t assume he will be okay
running in another. A dog that lives in a cooler climate like Maine for example, will not perform as well in a warmer climate
like Georgia, without time to adjust to the warmer weather.
The onset of heat related problems can be quite subtle,
so it is important to keep a watchful eye on your dog while training or hunting in warm weather. The symptoms can also be
very inconspicuous and difficult to detect, if you don’t know what to look for. The different types of common heat-related
problems that may be encountered while training and hunting are: Heat stress, Heat exhaustion and Heat stroke.
 |  | During the early part of the hunting season, all
gun dog owners need to be aware of the dangers a working dog can face in warm weather. Photo by: Author | Heat
stress is when, due to increased body temperature, your dog is not performing at his normal level. He may be slow in reacting
to your commands, will usually be panting and may simply lay down and not want to get up. Get him out of the sun and into
a shaded area, allow him to rest and give him water in small quantities frequently.
During heat exhaustion, which
is also called heat prostration, the dog becomes physically exhausted due to the exposure to heat, and the resulting depletion
of his body fluids. The dog will appear weak or tired with an anxious or listless expression; he may just stare into space
and be unresponsive to your commands. Usually, the dog will be panting heavily, will have a rapid heart rate, and may vomit
or salivate excessively. Also, he may be unsteady on his feet and stagger while attempting to walk, the dog may also collapse.
Get him into a cool area, if there is a body of water nearby get him in it, you have to try and cool his core body temperature
down. If your dog will drink “Gatorade” or ”Pedialyte” or one of the new specialized canine sports
mixes, give him a small amount, this will help replace electrolytes. If not, give him water in small amounts and allow him
to rest until his breathing and heart rate are normal.
8:17 am
Friday, May 23, 2008
| From: | Bruce Caplin, JD CPDT <10minutedog@comcast.net> | | Subject: | The Garden & Your Dog | | Reply: | 10minutedog@comcast.net |
|  | The Garden
& Your Dog The Dog Doesn't Have to be the Enemy!
|
| Dear
Friends: It's that time of year when we can roll up our sleeves and get our hands dirty. If you're like me,
you've been waiting for the weather to break so you can get out into the garden and start the fun work. If you're
also like me, you dread the possibility that Fido is going to trash all your hard work. Whether it's Fido's constant
digging, or eating those tasty annuals, or deciding that the best place to nap is right in the middle of your perrennial beds,
here is some advice to keep you sane. Remember, "Don't blame 'em. Train 'em."
|
| Fence
the Garden This may seem obvious, but often the simplest pet managment tools are the most effective.
Keep your recalcitrant pooch out of those flower beds with a small fence. I have found that even an 18" high wire, picket
or willow fence will keep a dog out of a garden. This works for large and small dogs alike. Experiment with different heights
and styles. A fence also offers a focal point to showcase the garden.
|
Know
Your Plants There are too many plants potentially toxic to dogs to list here. Here's a link to a
great site that has a comprehensive list of every plant that could adversely affect your dog.
Toxic Plants
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Add
Prickly Barrier Plants Dogs do not like to walk on surfaces that irritate their feet. Come to
think of it, neither do we. Add border plants with thorns, stickers or rough, prickly foliage such as juniper, red barberry
or a rose hedge.
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Stop
the Digging! If your ungrateful cur is digging holes in the garden, or other areas, try this: Excavate
out a 2-3" deep depression. Cut a piece of chicken wire to fit the hole and back fill the area. Dogs do not like the
feel of rubbing their pads on chicken wire and will stop digging in those areas.
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7:51 am
Monday, December 3, 2007
The Odd Couple--Introducing the Cat & Dog
A new client recently emailed me to discuss introducing her sister's cat to her
new puppy. There are several ways this can be done. Here's the method I found to be the most successful. That being said,
it is sometimes incredibly difficult, if not impossible, to get an older cat with a negative history of dogs to
live in peaceful coexistence with the new pup. Oftentimes, these cats do not want anything to do with the dog and remain low
key and out of sight. We need to focus on the dog and his inherent desire to chase prey. Whether playing, such as a young
pup, or intensely wanting to chase, catch and kill, we need to consistently and quickly redirect this behavior. I
prefer to teach dogs that cats are off limits entirely and are not to be disturbed. Here's what we'll do:
Using a helper, set up several short daily training sessions--no more than a couple of minutes at first. With your
dog wearing a training collar and leash, put him on a sit/stay next to you. Have your helper hold the cat on the other side
of the room. Remember to keep you energy level calm and quiet. At this stage your dog will mostly likely be very curious and
possibly excited. Insist that he remain in the sit/stay. Praise him for doing so.
Once he is calmed down and sitting
quietly, have the helper bring the cat a few steps closer. If your dog remains quiet at your side in a sit/stay--praise him!.
If he tries to lunge at the cat, give him a stern and dominant sounding, "NO! LEAVE IT!" together with a quick snap
on the leash and put him back into the sit/stay position.
Continue bringing the cat closer a few feet at a time,
repeating the corrections as needed and making sure to praise the dog when he sits quietly and ignores the cat. Remember,
this exercise can take several days, depending on the intensity level of the dog. You may only be able to gain a few feet
per session.
The second step occurs ONLY after your dog is able to sit calmly and quietly with the cat right next
to him. When he can do this consistently, we're going to release the dog from the sit/stay, with the cat being held by
your helper in the room. Let the dog roam around the room, with his lead on (so you can catch him quickly if needed).
If your dog gives even a hint of wanting to chase the cat, grab the leash and give a quick correction like above. Timing is
critical. If he is allowed to chase the cat, even once, he'll want to try it again......and again...........and again.
Once he's reached the level of no interest, you will try the second step with the cat on the floor in the same
room. Remember to keep the leash on your dog at this critical introduction stage. Go slowly and confidently and shortly, you'll
have a harmonious relationship.
9:56 am
Thursday, October 18, 2007
Dog Haikus--Some goofy stuff
Love my master; Thus I perfume myself with This long-rotten mouse. I lie belly-up In the sunshine, happier than You ever will be Today I sniffed Many dog behinds—I celebrate By kissing your face. I sound the alarm! Paper boy—come to kill us all— Look! Look! Look! Look! Look! I lift my leg and Whiz on each bush. Hello, Spot—Sniff this and weep How do I love thee? The ways are numberless as My hairs on the rug. My human is home! I am so ecstatic I have Made a puddle I Hate my choke chain— Look, world, they strangle me! Ack Ack Ack Ack Ack Ack! Sleeping here, my chin On your foot—no greater bliss—well, Maybe catching cats
Look in my eyes and Deny it. No human could Love you as much as
I do The cat is not all Bad—she leaves Tootsie Rolls in the
litter box I am your best friend, Now, always, and especially When
you are eating.
3:38 pm
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2008.07.01 |
2008.06.01 |
2008.05.01 |
2007.12.01 |
2007.10.01

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ARTICLES
PUPPY & THE PACK
For thousands of years dogs have
lived in social groups called packs and each pack member has his own position or rank in the pack. Once puppies are able to walk and interact, they try to determine their position
in the litter. A puppy soon learns if he is submissive, the other puppies will push him away from the food. If he is larger and stronger than the other puppies he will most likely be the one doing
the pushing. As puppies get older they will have to figure out their position in the pack.
After a puppy is adopted into his new human pack, he has to re-establish his position. If he was the bully of the litter,
he may try to bully his new pack members. If he was submissive with his littermates, he will probably start out being submissive.
As he grows older and larger he will try to determine where he fits into this new human pack. His ultimate rank will depend
on how his human pack members respond to his actions in various situations.
When first introduced
to his new family, a puppy will usually act somewhat submissive. When greeted, your new puppy may roll over on his back and
urinate or he may squat and urinate. He is sending you a message in dog language which says, “don’t hurt me, I
am not a threat to you.” If he submits in this manner, do not scold him or you will make the problem worse.
As a puppy grows older he will take his cues on how he should respond to his new owners by the way they react
to his actions. For example, a puppy is chewing on his favorite chew toy or rawhide and a child approaches the puppy. The
puppy uses the body language he learned from his littermates to warn the child not to come any closer. These warning signs
may be a low, soft growl, a curled lip, raised hackles or a nip directed at the child. If the child heeds the warning and
backs away, this puppy has just learned that a threatening growl is a good way to keep his prized possessions away from this
particular child. The puppy also learns that his rank or position in his new family is higher than this child’s.
Sometimes children are not able to interpret a puppy’s body language and they do not back
off when warned. After several such incidents, the puppy feels he has given enough prior warning and he bites the child. Other
members of the family may not witness the earlier incidents when the puppy growled and did not bite the child. When the child
finally gets bitten, the mom or dad will often say the puppy bit the child for no reason, with no previous warning and they
may want to get rid of the puppy.
If a puppy gets away with threatening a child or younger
member of the family, he will usually try the same thing when other family members come near one of his favorite possessions.
If the family member gives the puppy a stern correction and lets him know he should never growl at humans, the puppy has just
learned that his position in the new family is lower than the family member who corrected him but still higher than the child
he threatened. Over time, similar incidents will likely occur with every member of his new human pack. The response of each
family member to the puppy’s actions will help determine his ultimate ranking. Social maturity Once he determines his family
ranking and he submits to higher-ranking family members, there may not be any more problems until he reaches his social maturity.
The best way to describe social maturity is when the puppy becomes a teenager. Social maturity usually occurs between 12-36
months of age, with 18-24 months of age being the norm. He is now older, stronger, more confident and his attitude toward
family members may change. This mild-mannered, young, adult dog may now begin to challenge higher-ranking members of his human
pack that he had previously submitted to.
The best to way assure your puppy knows his proper
position in his human pack is to begin making him earn everything he receives, as soon as he joins your family. Prior to receiving
anything such as food, petting, or play, you must make him sit to earn these privileges or rewards. By making your puppy sit,
you will teach him that he must submit to you before you will give him anything. Nothing in life is free. Everything must
be earned.
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